Well Water

It is always best to have a complete water test done by a qualified laboratory before designing your water treatment. Not everyone does this, however, and a great deal can be learned with some pretty basic testing. The main things you need to know about your water if you aren’t going to have a comprehensive test done are:  

You should probably not attempt to buy equipment to treat your well without having at least the basic information described above. If you need help, please call 661-575-0033 in California, or 512-374-0830 in Texas, for information. Before planning a strategy for iron removal, it is essential that you know the pH of your water. The success of the treatment depends heavily on pH, and the pH of your water may even have to be altered to make iron removal possible.

(With wells, you should always have periodic testing done for bacterial contamination, whether you’re planning to treat your water for iron and hydrogen sulfide or not.)

Iron and hydrogen sulfide (H2S) are common well problems that frequently occur together and often lend themselves to similar treatment. The standard methods used to treat both are variations on the same three-step principle of oxidation, precipitation, and filtration. An oxidizer is added to the water, which induces precipitation of the iron and hydrogen sulfide, and the precipitated contaminant is then filtered out of the water.

 Iron & Sulfide

 You don’t need to be an expert in water chemistry to recognize either iron or hydrogen sulfide. Hydrogen sulfide gas is easily detected with your nose. Most people describe the odor as a “rotten egg” smell. You can smell it in amounts so small that standard tests won’t find it. It is most often evident in hot water, but you can usually smell it in cold water as well. Since it is a gas and it goes away quickly, it has to be tested on site. This means you can’t send a sample to a lab for testing. Often an amount of hydrogen sulfide so small that a test will not detect it can present a really serious aesthetic problem with your water.  

Iron is more complex. It exists as clear water iron (the water is clear when it comes from your well, but drops out rust if you leave it standing in a container overnight), or red water iron (which looks rusty when it comes from the well).  There is also a condition called “iron bacteria,” which takes the form of a dark, stringy slime in appliances and toilet tanks. You should look for an alternative treatment, like chlorination and filtration, if your water has large amounts of iron bacteria. Likewise, manganese, which often accompanies iron and is evidenced by dark brown and black staining of fixtures, can be difficult to remove with aeration unless there is considerably more iron than manganese. Please call for advice if in doubt.    

We classify systems into three groupings for convenience and clarity of presentation. Within these categories are several options and products. Read on. It isn’t as complicated as it sounds.

Group 1.  If you have Hydrogen Sulfide only.

If you have a very small amount of sulfide and no iron, you may be able to keep it under control simply by using our KDF85/Centaur filter. Carbon filtration alone will remove hydrogen sulfide, but if you have a significant amount that is not pretreated with an oxidizer, you’ll have to service the filter often. It may be a good idea to install a sediment filter before the carbon so you would not have to service the carbon filter often.

If you have a larger amount of hydrogen sulfide and no iron, you’ll need to oxidize or chlorinate, then filter with carbon. For this, you would need Iron Buster followed by our KDF/GAC filter. Or you could use a chlorinator with a retention tank followed by the KDF/GAC filter. If there is iron in your water as well as hydrogen sulfide, a cartridge-style filter will not work.

Group 2. Iron Only

If you have iron and no hydrogen sulfide, you will need to decide if you need an Iron Buster system or an iron filter only; or if you will need to increase the pH with a neutralizing filter in order for your iron filter to work. Or again go the chlorination route.

If you have a small amount of iron and no hydrogen sulfide and the pH of your water is 6.8 or above (7.0 or above is better), you can probably clear up the problem with a backwashing Birm filter only. Birm is a specially prepared iron removal medium that both oxidizes clear water iron and catches the precipitated iron. Unfortunately, it doesn’t work when pH is below 6.8.

If you have a small amount of iron and no hydrogen sulfide and the pH of your water is below 6.8, you’ll need to add a neutralizing calcite filter in front of the Birm filter. Calcite is a natural substance used by the water filtration industry to increase the pH of acidic water. The calcite filter will also catch some of the iron in addition to greatly enhancing the performance of the Birm filter.

If you have a larger amount of iron (Up to 10ppm) and no hydrogen sulfide and the pH of your water is 6.8 or above (7.0 or above is better), you will need a backwashing birm filter.

If you have a larger amount of iron (above 10ppm) and no hydrogen sulfide and the pH of your water is below 6.8, you’ll need to oxidize the iron with an Iron Buster system, add a neutralizing calcite filter, and then a backwashing KDF/GAC filter filter.

 Again, the chlorination method will work for high levels of iron and hydrogen sulfide.

 Group 3. Iron and Sulfide

If you have both iron and hydrogen sulfide in your water and the pH is above 6.8, you’ll need an Iron Buster system followed by a backwashing KDF/GAC filter.

If you have both iron and sulfide in your water and the pH is below 6.8, you’ll need an calcite filter, followed by an iron buster system, and then the KDF/GAC filter. Or you can go the oxidization route with the chlorinator. See illustration for a well system set up below.

Typical well water system configuration. Add a sediment filter before the carbon for heavy sediment

 Sulphates, Arsenic, Uranium, Lead and other Heavy Metals.

We have specialized systems that can handle these and other contaminants in your water and make it clean and pure for your family.

 Ultra Violet Sterilizer

We recommend a Ultra Violet Light Sterilizer regardless of the fact that you may get a negative reading for bacteria. This will safeguard your family in case bacteria starts growing in your well water system.

Chlorination:

This system will take care of both iron and hydrogen sulfide. It also will ensure that your well water will be free of bacteria. As stated, a retention tank is necessary to obtain the required time for the precipitation of the iron or hydrogen sulfide. This system has been used with great success over the years. The chlorine injected for oxidization will be removed by the carbon filter.